Wednesday, August 23, 2017

Post 4: Carnoustie and Monifieth

Day 7 – 10 Aug.  Today we move to Carnoustie, home of the 2018 Men's Open.  We checked out of the Fairmont and enjoyed the one-hour drive from St. Andrews to Carnoustie with most of the drive along the water.  Carnoustie is basically just across the bay from The Old Course and Kingsbarns. The day is clear but the hawk is flying so this will be a much different experience than the previous couple of days.  Carnoustie, like The Old Course, does not have a driving range so once again the anxiousness is eating me up.  
 Really Like The Logo
Can't Say It's Not True!
Before we teed off there was one very nice surprise – we all got to spend a little time with the Claret Jug, well actually one of three sanctioned by the R & A.  For those of you (like me two weeks ago) that don’t know, the winner of the Open is given the original Claret Jug, but it must be returned before the next year's Open, and the winner receives a replica to keep permanently. Three others exist — one in the British Museum of Golf at St Andrews, and two used for travelling exhibitions.  We got to see and hold one of those two.
Looks Better On The Bean

Need I Say More??

Off to the first tee @ 1040 and the wind is whipping.  Steady at 15-20 and gusting a bunch.  We once again went with a fore caddie (last time ever) and we once again got a lemon, so for most of us we’re kind of on our own.    The first hole is a short par 4, right into the teeth.  I hit a driver pretty hard and it slides right well over 180 yards.  I don’t even know where the green is, but I see some fairway up ahead and punch a 7 iron to the spot I see and luckily, it’s just off the apron.  Chip up, two putt, and I’m on my way.  We play what seems like the next 33 holes directly into the wind.  If you don’t catch it pure, it’s knuckle balling or heading left and right.  Needless to say, I wasn’t catching it pure.  Rough front nine with a 51.   Back nine is better, starting off bogie, and then stringing 4 pars with a miracle up and down from a very mean bunker on a par 3.  I’m sitting at 37 coming into 18 and I push my drive into the Johnny Miller trap.  
Coming Down 18.  New Clubhouse On The Right
I have to punch out at a 45-degree angle and manage to advance the ball about 60 yards so I’m sitting 100 yards out with a two-club tail wind.  I select my trusty 60-degree lob wedge, launch the ball majestically into the air, it hits pin high, off the back of the green and into the rough behind the swale.  I’m pretty well screwed, no green to work with, in the rough, and a swale to get through.  Once again, I take my trusty 7 iron, hit a little bump and run out of the rough, through the swale to 3 feet.  Tell me if you’ve heard this before, yep, I missed the freakin putt (AGAIN!!) for a six to finish at 43.  Still, so much better than the front and still a terrific day of golf.  

No 18 - Well At Least I Did Better Than Jean van de Velde in the 1999 Open!
We followed up with a couple beverages on the back patio overlooking the course, did a little shopping in the Pro Shop and headed out to Monifieth about 25 minutes down the road. 
Old Clubhouse Is About 10% of This New Clubhouse - Be Ready For the 2018 Open
Monifieth is a very small town and the hotel we’re staying at, the Panmure Hotel is, according to most reviews, a quaint little 3-star hotel.  I suspect those reports are perhaps a bit dated, say 1995. It's, as the Scots would say, "a wee bit" of a transition after the Fairmont St. Andrews.  That being said, it does have a certain charm and there is a certain "Cheers" kind of atmosphere when everyone knows your name.
The Panmure Hotel - Monifieth, Scotland
The front lobby area was pretty much packed with our check in.  No lift, just stairs, so we got a little bit of exercise before we hit the bar.
Lobby and Stair Stepper Work Out
It has a really cozy little bar that became the center of our social life for the next few days.  Keep in mind the hotel only has 12 rooms and we had 8 of them so we pretty much ruled the day. It's good to be king.
The "Cheers" of Monifieth
As the place was pretty much ours, we did pretty much as we pleased.  It was a little, shall we say "uncomfortable" when the ladies decided they wanted to see the lads' "trough".
Another mystery of the Men's Room solved.
Our room is quite small, as a matter of fact everything is quite small.  That being said, they did manage to "build" us a king size bed by pushing a couple of twin beds together, kind of like they do on a cruise ship.  There was only one really serviceable outlet in the room and that supplied power to the TV.  When Beanie showered and had to blow dry her hair, we unplugged the TV and she sat on the bed and used the mirror in the bathroom (some 5 feet away) and used the blow drier that way.  With few exceptions, everywhere we went in Scotland there were no outlets in the bathroom except a small 110V for an electric razor.  Which, BTW, works well for phones, camera and other small appliance battery charging.
 The first thing on my list is a shower, which the room does have.  So I disrobe my temple of a body and climb into the shower .  .  .  and climb in is a good description.
The Man Size Shower  -  You Didn't Really Think I Would Be Naked Did You??
I wasn't too concerned as I knew we had a healthy complement of soaps and shampoos from which to choose.  For example, the man-sized bath soap!!
Me & My Soap "Lozenger"
The accommodations include breakfast and dinner.  Keep in mind there are only twelve rooms and our group is taking 8 of them.  Dinner is surprisingly good.  Service is a little shaky but delivered with sincere effort and smiling faces.  Very young and dedicated staff, mostly students on summer break, but they work hard what appears to be very long hours.  We follow up with some really good desserts.  Tomorrow we’re doing a golf down day and visiting a scotch distillery and after that lunch at Gleneagles Golf Course, another great track we’re not playing.  So little time. . . . . .


Kathy:  We dropped off the guys at Carnoustie and the gals headed to Glamis Castle.   It's currently the home of the Earls of Strathmore and Kinghorne, the setting for Shakespeare’s Macbeth and beloved childhood home of the Queen Mother.  Did you know the "Queen Mum" was one of ten children?  Glamis Castle is over 600 years old and some people believe it's the most beautiful castle in Scotland.  It is stunning and we enjoyed touring the parts of it that were open to the public.  Castles can be dark though with their small windows.  Unfortunately no pictures were allowed inside the castle.  The grounds were extensive and included several gardens.

Glamis Castle

Front Garden, Glamis Castle

Fountain in Front Garden
After lunch at the castle we headed back to pick up the guys at Carnoustie, had some snacks and drinks on the patio of the hotel next door overlooking the 18th green, while the guys told their golf stories, tallied up the scores and dispersed the bets.

We then headed to Dennis’ boyhood town of Monifieth and the hotel Panmure.  Panmure was originally the home of two sisters who ran the town pharmacy before it became a hotel.  I knew from reading reviews that it was getting long in the tooth at this point (the owner talked about doing an extensive renovation in the near future) so I wasn’t shocked when we walked into the lobby.  Actually the lobby is quite charming with dark wood and a pretty staircase.  However, when we walked into our room and I finished checking it out (in 30 seconds or less) I felt that the TripAdvisor rating of 3 stars was overly generous.  The shower was approximately 3 feet square; the room may have been 12 x 12, though that’s probably a generous estimate.  There was a total of 2 towels, one TINY sliver of soap, half a roll of toilet paper, the most worn bed linen I’ve ever seen, the wallpaper was coming off the walls in more than few places and a tiny TV. 

Flat Screen TV - or as we call it in America "A small computer monitor"
 On the plus side, we HAD a TV (though didn’t turn it on), some other rooms didn’t, the bed looked sad but we slept well, they happily provided us with more soap and TP when we ask, we loved the location, and the staff were cheerful and hard working.  It couldn’t have been easy attending to such a boisterous group (I can’t imagine they get too many large groups to stay) and I’m sure there were a few complaints to deal with.  Not sure about the consensus of the group, but we had actually grown quite fond of the quirky hotel by the end of the stay.  If you’re reading this Dennis, thank you for booking this homey hotel for us.  Breakfast and dinner were included and the food was quite good.  The desserts were very good.  We all had fun in the combination bar/restaurant at the end of the day sharing drinks, dinner and stories of our different adventures of the day.

 
“Beanie got her kitty fix just up the way from the hotel – more points for the hotel”

He loved getting pets


Day 8 – 11 Aug.  Woke up to rain, so a good day to do something besides golf (can't believe I said that!).  We did a road trip north to Gleneagles, http://www.gleneagles.com/ Gleneagles is a bit different than many places.  It's a bit "upper crust", it has one of the few 5-star hotels in Scotland on the property, two really good courses, the King and the Queen, and is virtually carved into the low highland hills. Green fees are 210 pounds (~$300) for non hotel guest.  In many ways, Scotland is a steal WRT to golf.  The Old Course was 180 quid (~$250), and Kingsbarns was around 200 quid (~$270).  So for the price it cost to play 18 at Pebble Beach, you can play 3 of the premier courses in the world, within 50 miles of each other, and walk in the footstep of golf history.  BTW, no slam on Pebble Beach.  Haven't played it yet . . . .  but I will.   Gleneagles is a ways from anything, but it is a really nice layout.  
Nice Pro Shop & Really Nice Pub
We had a really enjoyable lunch.,  Beanie, Dennis, & I passed on the formal dining and headed to the bar overlooking the 18th hotel of the Queen’s Course.  What a monster, elevated tee about two zip codes away, hitting into a 25-yard fairway. . . . . and it’s almost always either raining or wet.  We nibbled on sliders, chips, and a strawberry caprese’ salad, drank a really good sessions IPA, and watched golfers coming into 18.  We had a terrific waitress from Greece which made for interesting conversation and nothing but time to burn.  A good way to spend a few hours.  I’d like to do it again.  After lunch Beanie & I did a little walk about and ended up walking up the #1 fairway (no one was playing) to the #2 tee box.  With the light rain and mist it was a beautiful, but treacherous looking course. 
No 1 Gleneagles Queen Course

No 1 Green Gleneagles Queen Course

Overlook Gleneagles King Course
We left there and headed to the Tullibardine Distillery to see what goes on behind the curtain when it comes to making scotch.  My conclusion is it’s a little bit like making sausage – it’s not all that pretty on the front end, but the results are worth consideration.  They offered a variety of single and blended scotch whiskies, all with their own qualities and considerations.  In the end, we chipped in and bought a nice 25-year old single malt for our driver, Sean. 

Distillery Tour

Making of Scotch - A Lot Like Sausage (Don't Think About It)
6000 Barrels of Aging Scotch - And a Gate Between Me & God!!
Now is probably a good time to talk about Sean, our driver.  Sean is a bit “heavy set”, but pure Scotsman.  He is big hearted, loves to laugh, and will do anything to accommodate the group and make them happy.  He’s reasonably knowledgeable regarding anything Scottish, loves the Robin Williams’ golf video (and said he understands every word – a testimony to how good Robin Williams got the dialects!!), and loves to do things that make him happy.   While the guys have been golfing, Sean has been chauffeuring the nongolfers to various castles, shopping trips, and about anything else they’d like to do.  A real nice guy.  Sadly, the only pic we seem to have is the back of Sean and the bus.  The smaller of the two is Sean.
Sean & The Magic Bus
Following the distillery tour, we headed back to the hotel for beverages and food. 


Kathy: It was another good day.  Finally saw Highland Cows on the way to Gleneagles on the bus.  Unfortunately didn’t get a good picture.  Check them out here, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highland_cattle
      
Discovered I still don’t like Scotch, no surprise there, but interesting to see the distillery.  Gleneagles is beautiful (to me the prettiest golf course we saw in Scotland) and lunch with Dennis was lovely.  

It’s a bit fuzzy at this point, but I believe this was also the day we visited Stirling Castle.  This is the castle featured in the movie Braveheart.  Much of it has been returned to its Renaissance splendor.  Very beautiful.  I particularly liked that this castle seemed a lot brighter inside than Glamis Castle.


Gardens, Stirling Castle

Stirling Castle Docent

Bridge Over Moat

More Stirling Castle

One of Several Gorgeous Ceilings, Stirling Castle

One of Several Royal Bedrooms

Day 9 – 12 Aug:  Today we’re golfing Dennis’s home course at Monifieth Golf links,  http://monifiethgolf.co.uk.  There are two 18-hole courses, the Medalist measuring 6655, par 71, rating of 72.4, and slope of 132.  The other is Ausludie, measuring 5123 yards from the tip, rating of 65.2, and slope of 107.  We played the Medalist both days.  Dennis has played this course probably around 1000 times.  It’s a classic links type course.  Weather was just about perfect once again.  The course plays well, and is a fair course, but it can bite very hard should you go astray, especially off the tee box. It has a punishing rough and Old Course like bunkers.  I shot 85 with a 9 on #10 on day one and an 87 on day 2 with an 11 on #11.  Part of it was just the severity of going into certain areas of the rough that provide no way out and part of it was just not thinking before weighing all my options.  Had I thought, hmmmm, Jordon Speith, #13, at the Open, I probably could have saved 5 strokes and a boatload of frustration.  All that being said, good course with good folks, and a good time.  Back to the hotel bar for more socializing and extraordinarily large portions of food. 


One of the newer clubs . . . .by Scottish standards

Dennis With Ron - A couple of really good guys!
The Club -  A Few Trophies inside with Dennis Allan inscribed!!

On Course Action Coming Up 18
Kathy:  Randy was so excited about the golf that he forgot about my favorite part of the day – the Discovery!  When we drove through Dundee on the way to Monifieth, I noticed an old tall ship docked at the port.  Dennis said it was the Discovery.  I had no idea we would have an opportunity to see it – or that it had actually been turned into a museum for that matter.  I’ve read so many books about the Discovery and its Antarctic expedition and was thrilled we would be able to see the ship.  Six of us (Me, Randy, Bill, Kim, Paul and Sally) decided to catch the bus in the morning into Dundee before the guys golfed in the afternoon to visit the ship and the museum.  I absolutely loved it. The research ship Discovery was built in Dundee for the 1901 British National Antarctic Expedition under the command of Robert Falcon Scott, with a crew that included Ernest Shackleton.  Those of you that love and are interested in all things Antarctica will recognize both of those names.  The ship became stuck in the Antarctic ice for two years before the crew was rescued and the ship freed.  During that time they were relatively comfortable and had plenty of time to do all their scientific research.  The museum and exploring the ship was wonderful.  An added bonus was the exceptional lentil soap I had for lunch in the museum restaurant. 

Excited to Go In

Antarctic Penguins

The Beautiful Discovery

She Was Built in Dundee

The Officer's Mess

Captain Scott's Cabin


After we return to the hotel, I walk the first two holes with Randy’s group, then head out to explore the town of Monifieth.  It’s a charming town of about 3000 and where Dennis was born and raised. 


Nice lady we met on bus to Dundee - We named her Grandmother Dundee!

Local Police Car - Not anticipating too many high speed chases

Typical Monifieth House With Nice Front Garden

Nice Apartments With Patio Gardens

Veterans Memorial

Day 10 – 13 Aug:  Today we kick a few of our group to the curb with the curb being Ireland.  Artie, Sue, Jim, and Danni are going to spend the next few days in Ireland.  I'm a little bit jealous, but the Bean and I decided earlier that Ireland should stand on its own and we'll make that a separate trip.  The bus leaves to take the foursome to the airport and some others to explore another castle on the way back.  Bill, Dennis, Kelly, and I remain behind to golf at Monifieth again.  Beanie also stays behind to further explore Monifieth and the next town over.  We had another good day for golf, though a wee bit of wind and rain hit us a few times throughout the round.  The more I play this course, the better I like it.  It's kind of like the hotel and toe fungus - it kind of grows on you!!

Kathy:  After farewells, the bus leaves and Randy, Bill and I walk up the coastline a bit and then Bill and Randy head back to get ready to golf and I walk the path along the coastline from Monifeith into Broughty Ferry, a bit larger town than Monifeith.  It’s a beautiful day.  It’s Sunday so families are in the parks along the path and lots of people have their dogs out.  We’ve noticed that the dogs in Scotland are very well behaved and though often not on leashes they come when called or stay by their families’ side.  The walk was beautiful with lots of wildflowers.  Closer to Broughty Ferry there is a sandy beach for swimming and then at one end is Broughty Castle.  It didn’t open until noon so I wandered into town to look at the shops and have lunch.  I had an excellent lunch at an Italian restaurant.  Then I visited Broughty Castle.  It was built in 1496 and faced many battles.  Today it houses very nice displays on the life and times of Broughty Ferry, its people, the environment and wildlife that lives close by.  It also contains a really special art collection and is regarded as one of the most important Victorian collections of Scottish art in the country.  Even though it’s a little known or visited castle (comparatively) it was a highlight for me.

It was time to head back to Monifieth and I decided to walk back along the main road that connects Broughty Ferry and Monifieth.  Enjoyed seeing all the lovely old homes with their beautiful gardens.  Summer is short here and it appears the Scottish people love their gardens.  It was a nice, relaxing day for me to recharge my batteries.

Heading to Broughty Ferry Along the Path From Monifieth


If you're drowning you have to hope the book isn't too good!
Not Rescue 21 now is it!!
Beach Exercise Group



View up the coast to Dundee - the towers are oil platforms from the North Sea in for dry dock maintenance

Broughty Castle

Broughty Castle

Bridge over moat to Broughty Castle
So many beautiful gardens - I was beginning to think they were fake

Excellent lunch - love Scottish mozzarella cheese!  Note the beer - I enjoyed several beers on this trip - though in this case it wasn't a Scottish beer

Yet another beautiful garden

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